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    « Capotillo | Main | Atlantian A&S 2009 : Persona Pentathlon »
    Monday
    Feb152010

    Capirote

    Background

    Very little is known about the travel hoods pictured in Hans van der Beken's Viaje de la emperatriz Maria desde Praga, 1601. Carmen Bernis, in her El traje y los tipos sociales en el Quijote, describes the garments as "a travel hood [that] resemble mens' hoods only in that they form a point” (Bernis 51).

     

     Hans van der Beken. Detail, Viaje de la emperatriz Maria desde Praga, 1601

     

    Hans van der Beken. Detail, Viaje de la emperatriz Maria desde Praga, 1601

     

    Construction

    This garment is entirely hypothetical, since there are no extant patterns for a woman's travel hood that I have been able to find. Therefore, I had to look at closely related sources for inspiration.

    Several points are of note in the original image:

    1. The hood is pointed, but does not have a sharp crease at the top "ridge" that might indicate a solid structure underneath
    2. The hoods appear to be lined with a contrasting, sometimes patterned fabric that is then turned back away form the face in a cuff.
    3. Although most of the hoods are dark in colour, several are patterned or embroidered.
    4. Each hood appears to have a bead or button at the tip of the point.

     

    Since Bernis mentions that the women's hood is pointed like a man's hood, I examined several contemporary tailors' books to find a possible starting point. After much research, I decided to start with Alcega's balandran pattern, which is essentially a cape with a tall pointed hood:

    Juan de Alcega. Tailor's Pattern Book, 1589

    To draft the pattern, I first sketched the original in miniature onto scrap wool, cut it out, and stitched it into a doll-sized hood. I then unpicked the front mask to examine how the sides would fall open. I then resketched the original pattern into a longer, more rectangular shape. After sewing another doll-sixed version, I ended up with an item that had both the pointed tip and the somewhat rounded top of the original.

    Once I was satisfied with the shape of the miniature hood, I picked out fabrics. Since this is a travel item, I assume that the fabrics should be sturdy and warm; however, the original image also shows embroidered and decorated edges and linings. I chose to use leftover silk taffeta from the rostro project for the outer shell, pale blue silk for the inner lining, and an interlining of lightly fulled wool from the capotillo project.

     I stitched the layers together with silk thread and treated them as a single layer. The garment has one seam down the back from point to hem. To achieve the rounder shape, I added a gore to the back seam, which creates a rounded hem. The seam is whipstitched in silk. I added a piece of braided commercial trim and a filigree bead to mimic the decorative touches of the original image.

     

    Bibliography

     Alcega, Juan de. Tailor's Pattern Book, 1589. Facsimile. Ed. J. L. Nevinson. New York: Costume & Fashion Press, 1999.

    Beken, Hans van der. Viaje de la emperatriz Maria desde Praga, 1601. Madrid: Patrimonio Nacional, monasterio de las Descalzas Reales.

    Bernis, Carmen. El traje y los tipos sociales en el Quijote. Madrid: Ediciones el Viso, 2001.

    "Capirote." http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capirote.

    Trump, R. W. The Annotated Arnold: A commentary on Patterns of Fashion 1560-1620 by Janet Arnold. Self-published.

    

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